ender 3 troubleshooting This is a topic that many people are looking for. khurak.net is a channel providing useful information about learning, life, digital marketing and online courses …. it will help you have an overview and solid multi-faceted knowledge . Today, khurak.net would like to introduce to you 5 beginner Ender 3 fixes – featuring manual mesh bed leveling guide. Following along are instructions in the video below:
“Knew the 3d printing and having trouble with your ender. 3. Well here solutions to to five of the most common problems you re most likely to experience the end theory has been cheap enough to entice a lot of new people into 3d printing. A lot of them are loving their new hobby and having success.
But there s also a lot of people posting desperately on forums because they can t get the thing to work hopefully in this video. I m going to be able to help you a lot we re gonna look at how to prevent extruder clogs. How to fit moving carriages that are too tight or too loose how to fix a non square wobbly frame how to level the bed and if you ve got a warped bed. How to compensate for this with manual mesh bed.
Leveling. Now one of the take home messages. Here is to get support from the riot. People.
There are heaps of three different. A communities around as long as you re courteous. Polite and willing to search before you post you ll find people ready to bend over backwards to help you in most of the facebook groups if you click on the file section. You ll find that people have very generously posted their slicing profiles for various slicing software onto issue 1 fixing and preventing extruder clogs.
Case. In point. This is based on the work of a community member luke hatfield. Who frequently resides the official cree ality.
Facebook group. He reached out to me and asked me to include the following procedure in my guide to further help with the community. Which he s already doing himself to a great great extent so. He is a copy of the end of 3 top of shooting guide by luke hatfield.
And you can see everything is laid out logically. It s got a nice table of contents there s a lot of questions and answers the one we re going to address his nozzle. Clogged or filament drag issues. That was actually a new version of this coming out and luke s been kind enough to send me the updated one so i can feature it in this video.
And this is a great illustration of the problem. We re trying to address here. This is a great feature here the ptfe tube is meant to go inside the nozzle. But if there s a little gap.
There it can basically pull and then clog your nozzle it ll look fine from the outside. But that all of a sudden you ll have a lot of trouble getting your printer to extrude or even pulling the filament out by hand now. There s a complete procedure. Here that takes you through how to repair this problem.
Here. Mine isn t doing that so i m just going to do the last part of the procedure. And that is making sure. The ptf is seated very nicely inside the nozzle.
I ve started by bringing the extruder up to temp and also removing the two bolts that hold the fan cover on after this i m going to get my spanner and loosen about three quarters of a turn my top ptfe fitting. Now i m going to push the tube down as far as it can go. And you might have seen this before i ve printed this in a previous video. But this little pressure fix can be used or a cable tie you re going to slot.
It in and that should lock the fittings. So the tuba can t move up and down at all after that we re going to get a spanner righty tighty..
It back together and now it should be locked in quite solid. The two assembly screws on the side need to be removed to stop heat from traveling up into the area that s not meant to be hot. We re going to tighten the grub screw being careful not to strip it and then after that if you re careful you should be able to pry the edge under to loosen the two screws and then the fiddly bit is still to come after you ve got them out they ll be dangling. They re caught in the captain tape.
But if you pull it back and get out some pliers. We ll be able to carefully pull it free now everything is done keep those screws in case. You need to do this again later on and reinstall your fan cover and in my case. Cable tie.
A bail touch out of the way. Now that should be time well spent in avoiding future issues. A reminder that a copy of that can be found in the file section of the official cree ality 3d printing group and next couple of procedures are going to be considerably more straightforward so let s get on to them starting with fixing loose or too tight moving carriages. My first end of three needed no adjustment.
But my end of three pro arrived with a very loose wire carriage and a very tight ex carriage here s how to fix that with the v slot extrusion and roller system used on a lot of 3d printers. Each one has three rubber wheels that they roll on one of those wheels is mounted on a hexagon eccentric nut and this is what we re going to use to adjust well the x axis is found on the bottom for the z. There s one on the left and right on the inside and for the y. You need to look underneath to locate the two adjustment ones.
They re the following procedure is exactly the same for any of these. But i m going to demonstrate it on the x courage because it s the easiest to film and access you ll find that when you turn your spanner in one direction. It gets a lot tighter when you turn it in the other direction. It gets a lot looser you see here that i ve loosened.
It that it introduced a great deal of play so to fix that all i need to do is turn it back the other way. However if you turn it too tight. It will become so tight that the carriage is hard to move by hand this is something you re trying to avoid if you re this hard to move by hand please loosen it off maybe a half a turn until everything goes smoothly. If you do leave it that tight the printer will still run.
But you ll introduce wear with groups on your rollers hopefully. If you had something too loose or too tight you now know how to fix it let s move on to our next. One which is fixing a wobbly frame after we assemble the printer now my end of three procon with this quite badly. But i haven t really fixed it until now because i don t think it really causes any print issues nevertheless.
I m going to fix it for you with the following steps. If your printer is very wobbly like mine is here. Fortunately. It s an easy fix you re simply going to loosen the two bolts on each side until they set up the frame.
And then you re going to apply pressure by leaning on it on top as you tighten them back up in my case. It didn t quite fix it and it was still a little bit wobbly. So what i had to do was loosen. The ones on the top on the bottom let it settle and then after i tighten them back up finally.
The wobble was gone all fixed so it s time to move on to the number one problem for most first time 3d printers and that is leveling the bed. There s different ways to do it this one definitely works for me. And i d like to start by pointing out that leveling the bed is probably not the best choice of terminology. Even though it s commonly used you re not going to get a spirit level and put it on top of the bed and get it flat and parallel.
According to that bubble. Instead. What we re doing is probably more accurately described as framing. Because we re trying to get the bed level with the carriage and therefore the nozzle above it if something in the x carriage for the nozzle was a little bit off then we want our bed to match the nozzle can remain at the correct height.
The whole way along there s several ways to do this the method. I like to use is to start by levelling with a piece of paper starting a test print and adjusting everything live essentially..
What you re looking for is a good amount of squish with the plastic on the first layer. If your nozzle is in midair your bed is not leveled if it s squished down. So much that the plastic has become one with the build surface your bed is not leveled a good way of knowing that you re close to spot on is that when it comes around to do multiple perimeters. There s no gaps between them or over extrusion.
Where lumps are formed from the being jam. Too close together let s get into it here. I m taking one for the team by restoring the bed to help comes from factory completely we re on down we re gonna level this from scratch. The first thing you should do is heat everything up because stuff expands and therefore you want it to be close to the printing as possible after that you re gonna do an auto home and then go to the menu and disable steppers that means you ll be able to move everything freely.
And what you re going to do is move it slightly into the corner. And then get out a piece of paper or a feeler gauge. If you ve got one twisting clockwise will rate. The bed and counterclockwise will lower it we re going to twist.
It until the piece of paper is just being caught in between the bed and the nozzle and then we re going to move it over to the next corner and repeat the same thing after we ve done the first three corners. It s a good idea to go back to the first one you ll find that moving one moves. The others and when i came back two points one and two the paper. No longer fit underneath.
So go around a couple of times as you need to and then you re ready to do your first test print. Now it doesn t have to be perfect at this stage. And i m fairly conservative in not getting the paper to grab very much that s because i d rather have the nozzle too high then be too low and gouge. A big hole in my print surface all you need at this stage is a nice base point to modify.
As you do a live print here. I ve chosen 100 millimeter x. As it starts to print. I m watching like a hawk and i m also rubbing with my finger to see how well adhere the filament is to the top surface.
I think it s too far i continue to turn clockwise as the print is happening. And what i m looking for as it comes around for the second and third perimeter is to get rid of any gaps between them now. The infill is done last. And i think i had it pretty down packed by that stage as you can see the skirt.
However is very goofy and hardly stuck to the bed at all when i try and peel it off it explodes and that s a good sign that the nozzle was too far away at that point. But after live adjusting throughout that first print. I think by the end. I had things pretty spot on i always run a second print of the exact same thing to test if that s true he goes round to i think i can spot a tiny little gap.
There so i make a very small adjustment as it s printing when it s finished. However it looks pretty ideal when i peel it off it stays intact and when we compare it to the previous one we can see that everything s in one piece and fairly flat or as the old one everything was in pieces job done hopefully. That s helpful for you and yes. It does take a little bit of experience to know when it s just right just keep on persevering and soon you ll find this a very straightforward procedure idea who are you saying.
However michael my bed is not level my platform is bent well me too here are the results of probing my bed with a bit of touch and the bed visualizer plugin as you can see it dips in the middle. And if i try and do the full print without auto bed leveling turned on its stuck on the edges. But it s just not in here in the middle because of the dip now previously for the end of three. I ve covered the easier bl and the bl touch twice in fact to overcome.
This issue. There is however another way. And that s manual mesh bed. Leveling and the best thing is it doesn t cost a cent.
The following procedure is going to show you exactly what you need to do in the firmware. But don t worry..
It s only four steps and i ll put them in the description to make it as easy to follow as possible. I m going to assume that you followed my burning a bootloader guide. You ve also followed my guide for setting up vanilla myelin because that s where this next. Bit is gonna pick up from we re gonna start by searching for the word manual and that s going to take us to manual probe and as it says.
It s a means to do auto. Bed leveling. Without a probe at the moment. It s commented out.
Which is these two slashes here that means. It s going to be ignored. When the firmware is compiled so we re simply going to delete the two slashes and now it will be included now it s giving us a hint to the next thing. We re gonna do we re gonna do it through the lcd controller so i m gonna copy this lcd underscore bed underscore leveling i m gonna go ctrl f to find again it s pasted it in automatically star.
I m gonna hit find and once again i m going to uncomment that it should be only one thing left to do and that s to tell it what type of bed leveling. We re going to employ let s search again for the word mesh and here we have five options. Some of these are only available. If you re using a proper probe.
But for us. We re doing the mesh bed leveling and that s as it says probing agreed manually. So we re gonna once again uncomment our last line define mesh bed leveling. Our reminder.
That you need to have sanguis. Know selected and 18 mega 1284 p. Now we can hit compile to test. If everything s okay now unfortunately.
We have an error here were over by 2200 bytes not to worry that s a pretty easy fix we re gonna switch to configuration. Underscore adv. We re gonna go control f and type in r. And that is going to take us to this section.
Here called arc support all we need to do is comment out the first line define article port now when we compile. We should have enough space. So we can see that it s done compiling that means we re ready to plug in our printer select. The outcome.
Port and now we can hit upload that s the firmware done and uploaded so let s have a look what we actually need to do on the printer to do a manual mesh red level you ll notice in your lcd menu under prepare you ll have a brand new option called bed leveling and we re going to go to level bed. It s gonna home and then it s going to go to the first point of 9. Which is in the lower left hand corner time to get out our piece of paper again once again. We re gonna put it underneath.
And we re going to this time turn the dial right to raise left to lower until. The paper just fits in between after that press the button it ll move to the second point and you re gonna repeat. It s very important not to touch the bed leveling knobs. But instead use the lcd control to set the height for each point eventually you will be done and you re ready to set your fade height.
20 mils is good and this controls the fading out of the mesh compensation. So it s still not making minor adjustments at the very top of a tall print optionally. If you d like to test. It type in g.
0. And you ll get a readout of your mesh bed leveling results. We re almost ready to do our first print. But first we need to update our start g code.
Now our usual g 28. To home oliver access by default in milan. Will negate. Any saved mesh bed leveling.
Therefore we need to add m4 20s one after g 28. In our starting g code. And that will tell milan to retrieve the stored mesh bed leveling and use it as it does the first layer of the following print. It s very subtle.
But you can see the said access is moving to lift the nozzle up and down to compensate for the measured differences. When you did the manual mesh bed leveling. There s only one problem. However.
Our first layer is not sticking at all so we still need to set as that bed offset. This is exactly what needs to be done with a bale touch or any other automatic bed leveling probe. Only one more thing to tweak. I promise.
We re going to start a print again and this time as its printing. We re going to go to the same menu and go to the bed z option to make our adjustment back in that same bed leveling menu. We turn it to the left to lower and to the right to raise until we find the perfect value to get the right amount of squish just like with normal bed leveling. I like to play with it throughout the first print and hopefully by the end of that print.
I ll have everything where it needs to be to verify this i ll run the same print immediately after and test that everything is how it should be second time around you can see our print turned out really well previously. It wasn t stuck in the middle. But it was stuck almost too much on the edges now it s quite uniform the whole way across which means the system is working you can see here. I probably had it just a little bit too close.
Because there is some mild over extrusions if you re happy with everything make sure you go to the control part of your lcd menu and store your values so they ll be there next time you restart the printer you might be thinking. Well. Why would i need a beyotch or easy abl well there are a couple of advantages. Both systems probe the bed as the start of every print and only takes about 30 seconds or so if something has shifted perhaps a removable bed not back on straight.
It will pick those up and adjust for them automatically every time with this system if you re careful and nothing moves you should only have to do it every now and again. But it s definitely not a streamlined one other thing to note with this system is it relies on the accuracy of you adjusting and feeling that piece of paper sliding underneath. If you get that off the whole system is going to fall down. That s it for this one.
I ve tried to make it comprehensive. But also make it as short and concise as possible so it s as valuable as possible moving forward that s off to luke hatfield. And other great people in the community who are willing to put in the time and effort to help all the new 3d printer users. If you re new to the hobby and having trouble hopefully this video can help you but don t give up it s ready printing is an immensely rewarding hobby and i trust if you stick with it you re gonna really have a great time thank you so much for watching and until next time happy 3d printing g day it s michael again if you liked the video then please click like if you want to see more content like this in future click subscribe and make sure you click on the bell to receive every notification.
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